A couple of weeks’ ago, I went to the friendly
neighbourhood butcher, intending to buy some oxtail. We were heading to Tora on the Wairarapa Coast
with a couple of other families, and Friday night dinner was our responsibility. But, there was only one oxtail available –
not nearly enough for the hungry crew – so I found myself at home with beef cheeks.
Now if you find yourself in possession of beef cheeks,
you’ll see immediately that they are layered with the toughest, most fibrous,
white connective tissues you have ever seen.
Ignore these. Really. Just pretend you never saw them. But remember that you’ll be cooking them for
around 5 hours, so plan ahead!
Beef cheeks
braised in red wine
Makes enough to
feed 6-8
2kg beef cheeks, chopped in large chunks – depending on
how they arrive, this may be in half or in quarters, but no smaller than the
palm of your hand
Marinade
6-8 cloves garlic2 tbsp juniper berries
Sea salt
Pepper
Fresh bay leaves (4-5)
Fresh rosemary, leaves stripped from the stalks
Olive oil
Red wine
Rind of 2 oranges, peeled with no white pith
In a mortar and pestle, pound together the garlic,
juniper berries, salt and pepper. Add
the bay leaves and rosemary and give them a few thumps to bruise them and
release their aroma. Add about ½ cup of
red wine, the juice of one of the oranges and a few good glugs of olive oil (¼ cup?).
Add the beef cheeks and leave to marinade for a day or two in the
fridge.
For cooking
Olive oil2 large onions, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
2 large carrots, finely chopped
A bottle of red wine (you may not need all of it!)
1 litre beef stock
Juice of 1-2 oranges
Redcurrent/quince jelly
Salt and pepper
Preheat the oven to 150 C.
Drain the beef (keeping the marinade, herbs and
peel). Brown in batches in oil and
transfer to a large casserole dish.
Deglaze the pan with about ½ a bottle of red wine, scraping up any
browned pieces of beef and bubble vigorously for 5 minutes. Pour over the beef.
In a clean pan, add more olive oil and soften the
onion. Add the carrots and celery and
gently cook until softened, then add about 2 C of beef stock, the orange juice,
the reserved marinade and 2 tbsp of fruit jelly. Pour over the beef. Pop into the oven and cook for 3 hours (this
is not the total cooking time, but you can safely ignore them for 3 hours).
At this stage, you can take them out and freeze them, or
leave them in the fridge if you are preparing them a few days in advance. If you do this, let them come up to room
temperature, then cook in the oven for 30 mins, until they are nicely warmed.
Check the beef cheeks, give them a good stir and add more
wine and stock, in roughly equal quantities, so that the juices just cover the
beef. The beef will still be quite tough
at this stage. Cook for another hour,
then check again, taste the juices and adjust for seasonings. Add more stock and/or wine if necessary. After another hour check again – when ready,
the beef will be meltingly tender – it will sit happily while vegetables are
prepared.
I have to confess that I completely forgot to photograph the finished product, these photos are of my mother's version of beef cheeks provided midway through the series of shakes that we've been having - slightly different recipe, but just as melt-in-the-mouth good!
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